Dog training is taught many different ways. Teaching your new dog new tricks and doing obedience training takes dedication and patience. It takes skill and personal consciousness of not only your dog's activities, but your own body communication and training habits too. Here are two tips any dog trainer can employ when handling their new best friend:
1. Signals must be given to your dogs with one hand and arm only. In the early stages you may overdo the signals to gain the dog's attention, but ultimately all signals must be given smoothly and swiftly without any excess body motion whatsoever. The size of the dog is not a consideration here, because you can train any dog to pay attention. If he is paying attention to you he will see your signs.
The people who might disagree with this method usually have yet to learn how to make their dogs pay attention. You will have to watch yourself carefully to avoid giving unplanned body signals to your dog. It is natural for a new dog owner to move their head, lean forward, or move her hands when she calls his dog. The new dog owner is so intent in watching her dog that she's oblivious of her own actions. Have someone watch you so she can tell you when she notices you doing this.
2. Be consistent - do not scold a dog for a bad deed one day and praise him the next for a similar act. You cannot expect your dog to understand what is expected if you keep changing your actions each time you try it. Dogs learn by consistent repetition, and the entire dog training program should go on smoothly and consistently. For example, the formulas that you will use in puppy training will be repeated in advanced exercises when your dog gets older, and your handling will be exactly the same.
3. Study your dog so you can anticipate his response to any situation. You can get attuned to what affects your dog. If you have a gentle, quiet dog, do not antagonise him by craggy treatment. A gentle dog will become very alert and responsive if you train him in a calm and gentle manner with consideration for his feelings, and love, of course. Aggressive or overly frisky dogs need more forceful approach, but do not encourage the rough play.
2008年8月24日星期日
2008年8月19日星期二
The Feeding and Nourishment of a Hermit Crab
In nature, a hermit crab is omnivorous. This means that hermit crabs eat a little of everything including plants and meats. While they are in captivity as a pet, their diet should either be based on a commercial diet with crab food and supplements of natural foods, or a natural diet consisting of foods you yourself might eat. Whatever you feel is best for your hermit crab, they are both adequate to nourish your crab.
As far as commercial food goes, there are several different types of crab food. Ask your local pet store specialist which they would recommend. Crab foods come in pellets or granules. If you are planning to use pellets, they should be crushed into a powder, to make it more easily accessible for your hermit crabs, especially if you plan to purchase a small crab. You can feed other commercial pet foods like reptile food or fish flakes. Whichever you choose, commercial foods need to be supplemented by natural treats. Veggies and fruits are great supplements to a commercial foods diet. Cooked chicken is also a great thing to treat your crab to every now and then.
Commercial diets are very convenient and most are fairly well-balanced. However, the best diet for your hermit crab is a diet full of natural foods only. Fruits that may be fed include mango, papaya, coconut, grapes, and bananas. Veggies that are appropriate to feed your hermit crab are carrots, spinach, broccoli, and seaweed. There are many more foods that are available to feed your hermit crab on a natural foods diet. A care sheet containing all the available foods can be picked up at most decent sized pet stores. Avoid starchy veggies like potatoes as well as avoid dairy products. You might find that your crab likes sweets or salty junk food. This should be rarely given for snacks, as it is not good for the hermit crab anymore than it is for people.
Besides being fed, hermit crabs need calcium. Some ways to provide calcium for your hermit crab are cuttlebone, found in most pet stores in the bird section. This can be broken up or given whole. There are also calcium supplements that can be given to the hermit crab besides cuttlebone. Also, crushed oyster shell, coral sand, and cleaned crushed eggshells all contain calcium for the hermit crab.
Besides food and calcium, hermit crabs need water. Purified water is the only water that will do. Chlorinated water is not acceptable to give to hermit crabs because it can harm their modified gills, causing blisters on them if repeatedly exposed to it. Needed is a water dish large enough for the required natural sponge and for the hermit crab to soak in. Be careful to offer a place for smaller crabs to get out of the dish so they do not drown. This first water dish is to contain fresh water. There is needed a second dish that should contain salt water, for the hermit crab. They have access to the saltwater in their natural habitats. A sea sponge should also be placed in this container as well. Feeding and providing water for your crab is a vital part of the hermit crab’s survival. Research as much as you can where this is concerned, as hermit crabs are not just throw away pets.
As far as commercial food goes, there are several different types of crab food. Ask your local pet store specialist which they would recommend. Crab foods come in pellets or granules. If you are planning to use pellets, they should be crushed into a powder, to make it more easily accessible for your hermit crabs, especially if you plan to purchase a small crab. You can feed other commercial pet foods like reptile food or fish flakes. Whichever you choose, commercial foods need to be supplemented by natural treats. Veggies and fruits are great supplements to a commercial foods diet. Cooked chicken is also a great thing to treat your crab to every now and then.
Commercial diets are very convenient and most are fairly well-balanced. However, the best diet for your hermit crab is a diet full of natural foods only. Fruits that may be fed include mango, papaya, coconut, grapes, and bananas. Veggies that are appropriate to feed your hermit crab are carrots, spinach, broccoli, and seaweed. There are many more foods that are available to feed your hermit crab on a natural foods diet. A care sheet containing all the available foods can be picked up at most decent sized pet stores. Avoid starchy veggies like potatoes as well as avoid dairy products. You might find that your crab likes sweets or salty junk food. This should be rarely given for snacks, as it is not good for the hermit crab anymore than it is for people.
Besides being fed, hermit crabs need calcium. Some ways to provide calcium for your hermit crab are cuttlebone, found in most pet stores in the bird section. This can be broken up or given whole. There are also calcium supplements that can be given to the hermit crab besides cuttlebone. Also, crushed oyster shell, coral sand, and cleaned crushed eggshells all contain calcium for the hermit crab.
Besides food and calcium, hermit crabs need water. Purified water is the only water that will do. Chlorinated water is not acceptable to give to hermit crabs because it can harm their modified gills, causing blisters on them if repeatedly exposed to it. Needed is a water dish large enough for the required natural sponge and for the hermit crab to soak in. Be careful to offer a place for smaller crabs to get out of the dish so they do not drown. This first water dish is to contain fresh water. There is needed a second dish that should contain salt water, for the hermit crab. They have access to the saltwater in their natural habitats. A sea sponge should also be placed in this container as well. Feeding and providing water for your crab is a vital part of the hermit crab’s survival. Research as much as you can where this is concerned, as hermit crabs are not just throw away pets.
2008年8月12日星期二
How To Discover And Prevent Aquarium Fish Illness
Aquarium fish fall ill just like any other pet. The illnesses are as a result of disease. The common diseases that affect aquarium fish are mostly stress induced.
The micro-organisms which cause these diseases may be present in the water as part of the normal micro fauna and grab the opportunity to infest or infect the fish when it is stressed and its normal defense are weakened.
Different ways aquarium fish suffer from stress
- Aquarium fish usually start experiencing stress starting from the time it’s about living the breeding farm till when the end purchaser finally picked it from retailer. Most beginners don’t really know how to handle fish.
- The quality of water is another cause of aquarium fish stress. Different fish species have different water quality that will make the environment conducive for them. Quality parameters like pH, water hardness, high nitrite and carbon dioxide level, low dissolved oxygen salinity of water, water temperature and others.
- Any change in environment like physical damage, leaches, lice and introduction of new fish that is not quarantine could lead to stress in aquarium, thus making life non conducive for fish in aquarium tank
- Change in weather condition is another factor that leads to aquarium fish stress. When there is heavy downfall as you know the weather will become cold and this could lead to stress in aquarium.
- Poor Diet as a result of lack in nutritional requirement always leads to poor performance in fish immune system. Fish immune system will struggle to operate efficiently. This will result in a stressed fish.
Warning signs of illness in aquarium fish
You can easily know when your fish are going through stress if you watch them very well and often. You will notice signs like fish swimming with clamps up (closed) in their fins, hovering in a corner, heavy breathing and fish brushing its body against objects. These are warning signs you need to act on immediately.
How to reduce stress in aquarium
To reduce stress in aquarium, you need to guide against factors that lead to stress. The following are tips on how to prevent stress that ultimately leads to illness:
- Make sure you have detail information about the fish species that you will be introducing to your tank. Enquiring about its requirements before you buy it will help you a lot. Thus, ask lots of questions before making your purchase.
- Knowing the right food for your fish is another important thing you have to know as this may vary from species to species. If you have this knowledge you will be able to provide foods that are rich in nutritional ingredients that your fish require.
- Keep the environment clean.
- When you want to introduce new fish, make sure it's quarantined to reduce the risk of disease.
The micro-organisms which cause these diseases may be present in the water as part of the normal micro fauna and grab the opportunity to infest or infect the fish when it is stressed and its normal defense are weakened.
Different ways aquarium fish suffer from stress
- Aquarium fish usually start experiencing stress starting from the time it’s about living the breeding farm till when the end purchaser finally picked it from retailer. Most beginners don’t really know how to handle fish.
- The quality of water is another cause of aquarium fish stress. Different fish species have different water quality that will make the environment conducive for them. Quality parameters like pH, water hardness, high nitrite and carbon dioxide level, low dissolved oxygen salinity of water, water temperature and others.
- Any change in environment like physical damage, leaches, lice and introduction of new fish that is not quarantine could lead to stress in aquarium, thus making life non conducive for fish in aquarium tank
- Change in weather condition is another factor that leads to aquarium fish stress. When there is heavy downfall as you know the weather will become cold and this could lead to stress in aquarium.
- Poor Diet as a result of lack in nutritional requirement always leads to poor performance in fish immune system. Fish immune system will struggle to operate efficiently. This will result in a stressed fish.
Warning signs of illness in aquarium fish
You can easily know when your fish are going through stress if you watch them very well and often. You will notice signs like fish swimming with clamps up (closed) in their fins, hovering in a corner, heavy breathing and fish brushing its body against objects. These are warning signs you need to act on immediately.
How to reduce stress in aquarium
To reduce stress in aquarium, you need to guide against factors that lead to stress. The following are tips on how to prevent stress that ultimately leads to illness:
- Make sure you have detail information about the fish species that you will be introducing to your tank. Enquiring about its requirements before you buy it will help you a lot. Thus, ask lots of questions before making your purchase.
- Knowing the right food for your fish is another important thing you have to know as this may vary from species to species. If you have this knowledge you will be able to provide foods that are rich in nutritional ingredients that your fish require.
- Keep the environment clean.
- When you want to introduce new fish, make sure it's quarantined to reduce the risk of disease.
2008年8月11日星期一
Collar Dog Training vs. Head Halter Training
Like humans, dogs need plenty of exercise to keep their lungs, heart, bones, joints and muscles strong. The simplest and most cost-effective exercise is walking outside. The change of environment and fresh air will help stimulate your dog physically as well as mentally. The new people, things, pets and smells will help to socialize your dog encouraging him to remain calm and adaptable in new situations.
Walking your dog can be counterproductive to your goals, however, if you are not adequately prepared to walk in tandem. For your sanity and your dog's safety it is critical to learn how to walk on a leash. Collar dog training is still one of the most popular means of training your pup although many dog owners suggest it may not be the most humane training method. A lot of dog owners are considering head halter training as a healthier alternative to collar dog training.
Before we talk more about collar dog training vs. head halter dog training you should consider this. Dog training requires a significant time commitment and an abundance of patience and understanding. If owners recognize that dogs are driven by instinctual drives, they may be more empathetic to a misbehaving dog which has most likely lacked attention and proper guidance in the past.
That being said, in my opinion, in order to ensure the physical and mental well-being of your pet, compulsion dog training (based on physical punishment which involves some level of discomfort or even pain, such as collar dog training) is not a feasible option when training most dogs. When selecting a training method, select one that utilizes positive reinforcement (rewarding appropriate behavior with a treat, toy or praise) which will not only teach your dog appropriate behavior but will help foster a stronger, trusting relationship between you and your dog. This type of training method can be achieved through the use of a head halter.
Training a dog with a head halter to walk politely is very simple. When the dog pulls stop immediately and refuse to go forward. Remember to never jerk or pull the leash aggressively as it could result in an injury. The pressure on his nose will encourage him to slow down. Only move forward when the leash is slack. Alternatively, if your dog gets distracted and moves to the side to sniff or grab something keep walking. As soon as your dog comes back to your side, reward him with praise.
The key is timing and consistency. Always reward your dog as soon as he has displayed the correct behavior and never reward your dog for inappropriate behavior. Inconsistency can lead a confused dog and a frustrated handler. Usually within 1-2 weeks of regular walking your dog will show great improvements making walks more enjoyable for you and your dog.
So as you can see collar dog training is not necessary to help teach most dogs to walk properly on a leash. Some form of collar dog training may be appropriate for a persistent "puller" but should only be practiced by a trained handler. If you have used the head halter consistently and properly without results and feel that you may like to explore collar dog training seek the advice of a professional dog trainer or participate in a reputable obedience training class.
Walking your dog can be counterproductive to your goals, however, if you are not adequately prepared to walk in tandem. For your sanity and your dog's safety it is critical to learn how to walk on a leash. Collar dog training is still one of the most popular means of training your pup although many dog owners suggest it may not be the most humane training method. A lot of dog owners are considering head halter training as a healthier alternative to collar dog training.
Before we talk more about collar dog training vs. head halter dog training you should consider this. Dog training requires a significant time commitment and an abundance of patience and understanding. If owners recognize that dogs are driven by instinctual drives, they may be more empathetic to a misbehaving dog which has most likely lacked attention and proper guidance in the past.
That being said, in my opinion, in order to ensure the physical and mental well-being of your pet, compulsion dog training (based on physical punishment which involves some level of discomfort or even pain, such as collar dog training) is not a feasible option when training most dogs. When selecting a training method, select one that utilizes positive reinforcement (rewarding appropriate behavior with a treat, toy or praise) which will not only teach your dog appropriate behavior but will help foster a stronger, trusting relationship between you and your dog. This type of training method can be achieved through the use of a head halter.
Training a dog with a head halter to walk politely is very simple. When the dog pulls stop immediately and refuse to go forward. Remember to never jerk or pull the leash aggressively as it could result in an injury. The pressure on his nose will encourage him to slow down. Only move forward when the leash is slack. Alternatively, if your dog gets distracted and moves to the side to sniff or grab something keep walking. As soon as your dog comes back to your side, reward him with praise.
The key is timing and consistency. Always reward your dog as soon as he has displayed the correct behavior and never reward your dog for inappropriate behavior. Inconsistency can lead a confused dog and a frustrated handler. Usually within 1-2 weeks of regular walking your dog will show great improvements making walks more enjoyable for you and your dog.
So as you can see collar dog training is not necessary to help teach most dogs to walk properly on a leash. Some form of collar dog training may be appropriate for a persistent "puller" but should only be practiced by a trained handler. If you have used the head halter consistently and properly without results and feel that you may like to explore collar dog training seek the advice of a professional dog trainer or participate in a reputable obedience training class.
2008年8月7日星期四
Kuvasz Puppy And Dog Information
The Kuvasz is a large sturdy dog with fierce protective instincts. She is a loyal, protective pet and she needs extensive early socialization with children, strangers and other pets. As a reminder, a child should never be left unsupervised with any puppy or dog. She may not take to other dogs in her territory. She needs a lot of exercise so a properly fenced in yard or farm would be ideal. She requires an experienced handler and strong obedience training. She is not a dog for the beginner.
*Approximate Adult Size. The approximate adult size (two years old or older) of the male Kuvasz is 28 to 30 inches to the withers (highest point of the shoulder) and 100 to 115 pounds. The female ranges from 26 to 28 inches to the withers and 70 to 90 pounds.
*Special Health Considerations. Most dog breeds have certain inherited health problems associated with that specific breed and the Kuvasz is no exception. Be on the look out for Canine Hip Dysplasia (genetic based looseness in the hip joint that can lead to arthritis pain and lameness), eyelid defects, and allergic skin problems. This disease list is an informative guideline only. Other diseases may also be significant threats, please contact your veterinarian for a complete list.
She should visit the veterinarian several times in the first year for shots, boosters and check up. Then, as an adult, she should visit the veterinarian yearly for shots and check up. As she gets older, six years and on, she should visit the veterinarian twice a year for check ups and shots. Remember; avoid feeding your dog sweets.
*Grooming. The Kuvasz has a double coat, medium coarse outside and soft undercoat. She should be rarely bathed and brushed daily. The coat has a natural oil that helps shed dirt. Brushing will help her maintain a clean and healthy coat and help you keep a closer eye on her health and strengthen your emotional bond with her.
Her teeth should be brushed at least twice a week with toothpaste and toothbrush designed for dogs. Brushing removes the accumulation of plaque and tartar which can cause cavities (rarely) and periodontal disease. Dog periodontal disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, bad breath and other serious disease.
Her toenails may need to be examined for growth and clipped regularly. The toenails of the rear feet grow slower than the toenails of the front feet. Generally a guillotine type trimmer is the best for this chore and competent instructions to accomplish this can be found on the net.
*Life Span. The Kuvasz can live between 9 and 12 years with proper nutrition, medical care and excellent living conditions.
*History. The Kuvasz come from Tibet where they were used to herd cattle and sheep from coyotes and wolves. They were first registered by the American Kennel Association in 1931.
Some Registries:
*Kuvasc Club of America
*UKC United Kennel Club
*NKC National Kennel Club
*CKC Continental Kennel Club
*APRI Americas Pet Registry Inc.
*AKC American Kennel Club
*FCI Federation Cynologique Internationale
*NZKC New Zealand Kennel Club
*KCGB = Kennel Club of Great Britain
*ANKC = Australian National Kennel Club
*ACR = American Canine Registry
Litter Size: 7 to 8 Kuvasz puppies
Category: Working.
Terms To Describe: Large, intelligent, curiosity, determination, sensitive, gentle, patient, guarding, courage
*SPECIAL GOOD POINTS
They like cold weather.
Protects children.
Can be easy to housebreak.
Very good watch dog.
Very good guard dog.
She is not a roamer.
*SPECIAL BAD POINTS
They may slobber or drool.
Does poorly in hot weather.
Needs serious obedience training.
Needs an experienced owner.
Can be dangerous to strangers.
Not a dog to leave tied up in the yard.
Can become very aggressive.
*Other Name: Hungarian Kuvasz
*Every dog is an individual so not everything in this information may be correct for your dog. This information is meant as a good faith guideline only.
*Approximate Adult Size. The approximate adult size (two years old or older) of the male Kuvasz is 28 to 30 inches to the withers (highest point of the shoulder) and 100 to 115 pounds. The female ranges from 26 to 28 inches to the withers and 70 to 90 pounds.
*Special Health Considerations. Most dog breeds have certain inherited health problems associated with that specific breed and the Kuvasz is no exception. Be on the look out for Canine Hip Dysplasia (genetic based looseness in the hip joint that can lead to arthritis pain and lameness), eyelid defects, and allergic skin problems. This disease list is an informative guideline only. Other diseases may also be significant threats, please contact your veterinarian for a complete list.
She should visit the veterinarian several times in the first year for shots, boosters and check up. Then, as an adult, she should visit the veterinarian yearly for shots and check up. As she gets older, six years and on, she should visit the veterinarian twice a year for check ups and shots. Remember; avoid feeding your dog sweets.
*Grooming. The Kuvasz has a double coat, medium coarse outside and soft undercoat. She should be rarely bathed and brushed daily. The coat has a natural oil that helps shed dirt. Brushing will help her maintain a clean and healthy coat and help you keep a closer eye on her health and strengthen your emotional bond with her.
Her teeth should be brushed at least twice a week with toothpaste and toothbrush designed for dogs. Brushing removes the accumulation of plaque and tartar which can cause cavities (rarely) and periodontal disease. Dog periodontal disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, bad breath and other serious disease.
Her toenails may need to be examined for growth and clipped regularly. The toenails of the rear feet grow slower than the toenails of the front feet. Generally a guillotine type trimmer is the best for this chore and competent instructions to accomplish this can be found on the net.
*Life Span. The Kuvasz can live between 9 and 12 years with proper nutrition, medical care and excellent living conditions.
*History. The Kuvasz come from Tibet where they were used to herd cattle and sheep from coyotes and wolves. They were first registered by the American Kennel Association in 1931.
Some Registries:
*Kuvasc Club of America
*UKC United Kennel Club
*NKC National Kennel Club
*CKC Continental Kennel Club
*APRI Americas Pet Registry Inc.
*AKC American Kennel Club
*FCI Federation Cynologique Internationale
*NZKC New Zealand Kennel Club
*KCGB = Kennel Club of Great Britain
*ANKC = Australian National Kennel Club
*ACR = American Canine Registry
Litter Size: 7 to 8 Kuvasz puppies
Category: Working.
Terms To Describe: Large, intelligent, curiosity, determination, sensitive, gentle, patient, guarding, courage
*SPECIAL GOOD POINTS
They like cold weather.
Protects children.
Can be easy to housebreak.
Very good watch dog.
Very good guard dog.
She is not a roamer.
*SPECIAL BAD POINTS
They may slobber or drool.
Does poorly in hot weather.
Needs serious obedience training.
Needs an experienced owner.
Can be dangerous to strangers.
Not a dog to leave tied up in the yard.
Can become very aggressive.
*Other Name: Hungarian Kuvasz
*Every dog is an individual so not everything in this information may be correct for your dog. This information is meant as a good faith guideline only.
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